Golden Triangle and Sacred Ganges Voyage on Uniworld's Ganges Voyager II
Having visited the west coast of India, Mumbai and Cochin, on a previous ‘Spice route’ cruise from Singapore to Dubai, when Uniworld River Cruises invited us to experience their 13 day India’s Golden Triangle and Scared Ganges Voyage we both jumped at the chance to be able to visit this colourful country, renown for its spicy cuisine, vibrant spirituality and energetic culture, to see it in more depth.
Prior to our Ganges river cruise our 13 days of discovery began the moment we landed in New Delhi at the start of five days of land exploration in one of India’s most enchanting locations known as the Golden Triangle. The Golden Triangle is the name given to a popular and well travelled tourist circuit that connects three major cities: Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, forming a triangle on the map. Each of these cities is home to UNESCO World Heritage Sites and other historical monuments that showcase the grandeur of India's past and present.
Arriving at Delhi airport our private transfer was waiting for to whisk us to our first two nights in the stunning Oberoi New Delhi Hotel, a fitting residence that from the first minute you walk through the doors embraces you with their warm hospitality and exceptional luxury for which this family owned group of five star hotels is renowned. After a good night’s sleep and a quick morning meeting to introduce us to our guides and fellow travellers we set of on a guided tour of this mega city, home to Delhi’s 22 million inhabitants. Starting with a thrilling rickshaw ride through the ancient labyrinth of narrow back streets that form Old Delhi, this experience truly engages all the senses as you bump your way along the rickety streets filled with the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
After the rickshaw ride it was time for a moment of quiet reflection with a visit to the site of martyrdom of the great Mahatma Gandhi, where he spent his last days before succumbing to an assassins bullet. Rounding off the morning’s city tour was a stop at Emperor Humayun’s Tomb, a grand ‘Dormitory of the Mughals’ containing over a hundred graves and, predating the Taj Mahal, the earliest example of Persian influence on Indian architecture. What a flying start to our grand Indian adventure!!
But our day wasn’t finished there, after a lunch stop at a local market where we were able to wander around independently for an hour or so, most of us then joined the optional afternoon excursion to Qutub Minar, the second most visited tourist site in the country.
With an early start the next morning we all boarded our luxury coach for the short drive to Agra and the magical Oberoi Amarvilas. This magnificent hotel is as beautiful and luxurious as the sister hotel we had just departed, but with one unique and distinguishing feature, every single stunning room has a view of one of the most famous and loved historical sites on the planet and one of the eight Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal. Completed in the mid-17th century, The Taj Mahal, often referred to as the "Crown of Palaces," stands as an iconic symbol of love and architectural brilliance in the heart of Agra. This stunning white marble mausoleum was commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died during childbirth. To reflect his deep and enduring love for his tragic loss, the Emperor designed the mausoleum to be adorned with intricate carvings, calligraphy, and delicate marble inlay work known as "pietra dura." The central structure, crowned by its iconic dome, stands amidst symmetrical gardens and reflective pools, creating a breathtaking and harmonious visual spectacle. It’s one of the most visited landmarks in the world and we loved that we were whisked through the crowds on board our own exclusive buggies directly from the hotel right to the gates. With a couple of hours guided tour around the site we had time to take in the magnificent building from every angle as well as taking a tour inside.
As the sun set it was marvellous to watch the creamy colours reflecting off of the marble before making our way in our buggies back to the hotel in time for a cultural dance show on the poolside stage with the Taj Mahal as the backdrop. But that wasn’t all, we had a return visit to the Taj Mahal, this time as the gates opened the next morning to watch the sunrise over the building. Unfortunately for us the morning was cloaked in cloud so we couldn’t actually see a thing but we could imagine that for those more fortunate than us, this is a magnificent site, and it was so much quieter than it had been the day before, with most of the crowds yet to arrive. It truly was sublime and without equal.
With only one night in Agra, the next day we re-boarded the coaches for a long day of travel from Agra to Jaipur, the final stop in the Golden Triangle. We stopped for lunch along the way where we were greeted by some VERY entertaining locals, before re-boarding the bus for the journey through the Indian Countryside. Almost at our next hotel stop Hamesh, our tour director, decided to stop at a local market so we could all stretch our legs and visit a truly authentic Indian street market - a real insight to life in rural India. Finishing off our journey late afternoon we arrived at the incredibly spacious oasis of calm and tranquility known as the Oberoi Rajvila Hotel. That evening we had a hosted dinner with all Uniworld guests invited to join in an evening of delicious al fresco cuisine and entertainment (including some audience participation) from local dancers.
Known as the "Pink City," Jaipur is the capital of the Indian state of Rajasthan, famous for its colourful markets, vibrant culture, and well-preserved historical sites. We started our visit there the following day with a visit to the incredible Amber Palace a world famous old royal palace, now a magnet for engaged and newly wedded couples who come from all over India to have photo shoots against the backdrop of this stunning location.
From Amber Palace we had a whistle stop city tour before heading to Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site devoted to astronomy where we learnt about the significance of astrology to the Hindu faith, as well as their magnificent time keeping structures. We then crossed over the road to visit the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum , a royal residence and former administrative headquarters of the rulers of Jaipur state and now home to a museum devoted to the royal family and their historical significance, both in Jaipur and across the world. After a quick lunch stop there was the option to visit a local market or return to the hotel. We chose the latter, wanting to make the most of our magnificent hotel, enjoying a relaxing few hours around the lovely pool after what had been an action-packed few days.
The time had come for us to leave the Golden Triangle with a very early flight from Jaipur to our next destination Kolkata. Arriving at Kolkata airport mid morning we met up with our new guides for this section of our voyage and boarded a coach for the hour journey to meet the exquisite Uniworld river boat Ganges Voyager II, our home for the next seven nights of luxurious sailing on the worlds most sacred river. Driving through Kolkata was an eye-opening experience, taking in both the incredible amount of people inhabiting the city as well as witnessing levels of poverty we’ve rarely seen during any of our travels. And so it was with the mixed emotions of sadness and happiness when we spotted our ship and walked down the gangway to be greeted with falling flower petals over our heads and a warm welcome from the ship’s Captain who adorned every passenger with a Mara, a traditional flower garland, and a bindi.
Built in 2016, Ganges Voyager II is rich with design flourishes that reflect the region we were about to explore. Heading straight to our suite, the Heritage suite, right at the front of deck 3, our lovely room steward and head housekeeper were there to meet us with our luggage and show us around before leaving us to unpack. Quickly unpacking it was then time to head to the restaurant for lunch as the ship slipped rope and headed out of Kolkata and up the Hooghly river. With an afternoon of sailing to settle in and find our way around our home for the next week we enjoyed some time to get over our early start relaxing on the luxurious sun deck and in the beautiful lounge. Arriving at our first stop later that evening we berthed up for our overnight stay in preparation for an early tour the next day.
Alighting the ship in Kalna ealry the next morning, we were all shown to one of the many auto-rickshaws waiting for us shoreside to take us through the streets of Kalna to the Rajbari temple complex consisting of a number of Hindu temples which we were shown around by our knowledgeable guides. Following our walk through the temple complex we crossed the street for a stroll through the hustle and bustle of the Kalna Chowk Bazar, our first real chance to mingle with the locals as they buy beautifully ripe produce, spices and fresh fish. It was a fascinating deep delve into everyday life here in the Temple City.
Back to the ship in time for lunch we were first greeted by some local school children who were having a morning break in the field next to where the Ganges Voyager II was docked. As we enjoyed lunch The Captain steered us away from Kalna and upriver to our next stop Matiari while we enjoyed a talk from the chef on board who explained some of the local foods and spices found along the river and used in Indian cuisine. The was immediately followed by a talk from one of our two guides on board about the actual Ganges river and the role it plays in the life of the locals - there’s no time to rest when theres so much to learn on a Ganges river cruise.
Arriving at Matiari later that evening we docked overnight ready to get up early and explore the streets of this industrial town with its abundance of local animal life and charming brightly coloured houses with its community devoted to both their gods (in this town predominantly Krishna) and their craft. For more than a century, resident artisans have been making ornamental brass objects like vases, lamps, figurines, platters and goblets so it’s no wonder that production is so well-organised and the craftsmen so skilful. First we were taken to see the scrap metal being melted in the village foundry and pressed into new sheets of brass, then to the craftsman that shape the metal and finally to a couple of workshops showing off the finished objects, with the chance to purchase some souvenirs from our time in this fascinating and entrepreneurial town.
After another delicious lunch, and with the Ganges Voyager II departing for her next destination, there was still no time for rest on this action packed voyage, with another cultural presentation, this time from our butler and head house keeper, a turban and sari demonstration followed by time to adorn them ourselves and then partake in a little Indian dance with the crew. That evening our dancing skills were put to shame by a local dance troupe that came on board to show us how it was done, though they were gracious enough to invite us to join them for a dance or two after they had delighted us with their own dance skills.
The next day we were docked in Khushbagh for an early morning shore visit, this time by tender, in this case a traditional wooden boat called a Sampan, and a gentle stroll inland through a variety of small holdings where we were able to witness firsthand rural subsistence farming in action. The short walk soon took us to the main road through this small village where the Khushbagh Cemetery was located, a significant site in Indian history being home to the graves of the Nawabs of Bengal of the Afshar dynasty and their family members. Khushbagh literally means ‘Garden of Happiness’ and “Nawab” is the term given to Governors under Muslim rulers of the Mughal Empire.
Back on board in time for a mid-morning coffee we then had a scenic sail over lunch before arriving at the thriving village of Baranagar, nestled on the banks of the Hooghly River and for us a highlight of the cruise. There’s so much to see and learn about village life here, from the plentiful supply of organic fuel courtesy of the village’s sacred cows, to visiting an inspiring local villager who runs a language school to teach the younger residents how to speak English, to learning about the small businesses and industrious residents.
With very few foreign visitors, we attracted the attention of the local school children, who were as interested in us as we were in them and kept asking us to pose for selfies with them. On the way back to the ship, the crew challenged all of the guests to a game of the nations favourite sport - cricket. Though the crew were far more practiced than we were, we gave them a run for their money and at least we were entertainment for the bovine locals living in the filed where we played. Back on board we were invited to the lounge for another local entertainer, this time in the form of a magician who had us all joining in with some of his trickery and slight of hand.
The next morning we had another early morning auto-rickshaw ride this time through the streets of Murshidabad, the former capital of Bengal. At the other end of this large town is the Katra Mosque, built in 1723 by the town’s first nawab and who the town is named after Murshid Qhli Khan. An earthquake in 1897 destroyed two of the four great towers, but the remaining structures are still a remarkable sight. After walking round the mosque and gardens we re-boarded our rickshaws for the drive back through town to the Hazarduari Palace, a massive neoclassical building erected in the mid-19th century for British officials, who lived and had their offices there. It was an important administrative centre during the Raj and although containing 114 rooms, it boasts a thousand doors! Now a museum we had a whistle stop tour around it before an independent stroll along the market streets and back to the nearby ship.
With a relaxing afternoon of sailing our talented housekeeper and butler again enthralled us all by decorating our arms, hands and feet with intricate and beautiful henna tattoos. As if our day had not been fabulous enough we finished it off after dinner with a beautiful celebration of light as the crew sent off some biodegradable candles down the river in a celebration of our journey along the sacred Ganges.
The next day we had the chance to visit to Mayapur, the centre of the international Hare Krishna movement and home to the new Temple of the Vedic Planetarium. Still under construction, the new temple will be larger than St Paul’s Cathedral in London once finished. Millions of Hare Krishna devotees come from all over the world to this pilgrimage site and we were given a guided tour by one of the long term residents, including a visit to the existing temple complex as well as the chance to experience some time with worshippers inside one of the large sites of worship and learn something about the beliefs of the International Society of Krishna Consciousness.
Setting sail from Mayapur over lunch, later that afternoon we arrived at Chandannagar, which for centuries was a French outpost in West Bengal. In fact, Chandannagar itself did not officially become part of India until 1952, and as soon as we stepped ashore we noticed the fascinating mixture of French Colonial and Indian architecture as we strolled along the broad, tree-lined riverfront promenade known as the Strand which houses the handsomest remaining French buildings. Following our stroll along the Strand we visited the 19th-century Church of the Sacred Heart where we were also lucky enough to witness a Catholic wedding taking place on this Saturday evening. With the sun setting we headed back to the ship for our last evening of sailing as we made our way back to Kolkata, again enjoying a dance show out on the sun deck from a local dance troupe.
Back in Kolkata there were two options for the next day’s excursions so we decided to split up, with Rich taking the option to visit Saint Teresa’s house and the Missionaries of Charity, devoted to the “salvation and sanctification of the poorest of the poor.” Entering the Mother House, where she lived and worked for decades, what was most noticeable was the simplicity of the furnishings and the tiny museum devoted to her, such a significant figure in Indian history is so humbly remembered with her Nobel Peace Prize medal simply on display and her very modest tomb.
Meanwhile Helen was at the NGO Calcutta Rescue, which serves the area’s underprivileged children. For over 30 years, they’ve provide much needed services at no cost to some of the poorest people of Kolkata and West Bengal, regardless of gender, age, caste, or religion, through health clinics, vocational training, and the school we visited. Shown around the cramped school by the headteacher she had the chance to meet some of the children and observe some of their lessons, humbled by the significance of the work carried out in this tiny insignificant building.
Alongside our visits to these sites we both had the chance to enjoy a panoramic tour of Kolkata’s city centre, including a serene visit to the catholic church of St John with the Black Hole of Calcutta monument in its grounds, a quick photo stop at the Victoria Memorial Hall and a very interesting walk around the colourful Flower Market, the largest in Asia. Located adjacent to the giant Howrah Bridge, this vibrant and bustling market is filled with vendors and buyers exchanging money for flowers to be used in festivals, rituals, weddings, and more. Walking around here was one of the strangest experiences of our travels with the sheer intensity of people and stimulation of every one of our senses, all on high alert.
With that our incredible journey had come to an end. This really had been one of the most unusual and incredible voyages we had ever taken, steeped in cultural immersion, an awakening of every sense in our bodies in this vibrant, colourful and unique country. With the chance to not only visit India’s large cities and tourist hotspots but also some very remote parts of rural India where many of the locals were as intrigued by us and our lives as we were them, this had been a unique, once in a lifetime experience, and one we will never forget.
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Thank you to Uniworld River Cruises who hosted us on this week long cruise. Uniworld covered the cost of our cruise, land tour, and air fares. Uniworld River Cruises had no editorial control over any of our content, either before, during our after our voyage.
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